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Edition 9.53 H&H Gardening Newsletter December 31, 2009

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December

January is the month to prune just about anything that you can reach with your shears, but especially fruit trees and roses.



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Featured Quotation:

"A New Year's resolution is something that goes in one year and out the other."
~ Author Unknown


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January To Do
1. Purchase and plant bare-root roses, trees, vines, berries and vegetables.
2. Choose and plant camellias and azaleas.
3. Purchase cymbidiums.
4. Purchase and plant cool-season flowers to fill in bare spots.
5. Plant seeds of warm-season flowers for transplants to put out in spring.
6. Continue to plant winter vegetables from transplants and seeds.
7. Many succulents, including cacti, bloom in winter and spring; purchase new types now.
8. Prune deciduous fruit trees.
9. Prune roses.
10. Deadhead azaleas.
11. Mow cool-season lawns. Most warm-season lawns are dormant now and don't need mowing.
12. Begin to feed citrus trees in coastal zones.
13. Treat citrus trees for chlorosis.
14. Start feeding epiphyllums for bloom with 0-10-10 or 2-10-10.
15. Continue to fertilize cymbidiums that have not yet bloomed with a high-bloom formula.
16. Feed cool-season flowers.
17. Feed cineraria.
18. Fertilize cool-season lawns.
19. Water plants according to need (when the rains are not adequate).
20. Irrigate citrus trees.
21. Remember to water plants under eaves where the rains cannot reach.
22. Dormant spray roses and deciduous fruit trees.
23. Check citrus trees for pests.
24. Pick up dead camellia blossoms to prevent petal blight.
25. Protect cymbidiums from slugs and snails.
26. Control rust on cool-season lawns.
27. Check trees, shrubs, and ice plants in coastal zones for overwintering whiteflies. Control by spraying.
28. Pull weeds.
29. Spray peach and apricot trees for peach leaf curl. Come in and ask our sales associates which dormant spray would work best for your trees.
30. Protect tender plants from frost.
31. Stake cymbidium bloom spikes.
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The venerable queen of Europe's historical gardens is unquestionably the rose. Her sovereignty holds sway over all others with an unforgettable aroma, color and elegance. Your garden will bring all others to their knees if you take a chance and plant these pulchritudinous perfumeries.

Begin by staking out--literally--where you plan to place these beauties. Using bamboo stakes will aid you in evenly spacing them. They will thrive in full sun and well-drained soil. Group them by color, maintaining a harmonious flow throughout your garden by combining them in a proportionate, orderly and congruous manner. And remember that a soil pH level of 5.5 to 6.6 is the ultimate medium for raising a rose garden.

Our roses have been carefully inspected when they arrived from the rose companies. We have planted our roses in biodegradable pulp pots. Before they have been transplanted in these containers, their roots and canes have been inspected to make sure there are no damages or breakage to each rose. These containers can be planted directly into the ground, since they will biodegrade, or transplanted from out of the container into the ground.

Roses come in three grades; grade 1 is the best and therefore the most expensive. The requirement for this grade is that the plants must have at least three strong canes, two of which must be at least 18 inches in length for hybrid teas and grandifloras. The canes should be at least 1/8 inch in diameter. Grade 1½ requires at least two strong canes, 15 inches long for hybrid teas and grandifloras, and at least 1/8 inch in diameter. Grade 2 is the least expensive grade, and also the least reliable; they could end up an unwanted gamble. The thicker the diameter, the better the plant, no matter from which of the hundreds of varieties you choose.

To ensure a healthy start for your roses, we recommend soaking each pulp pot container with a mixture of Master Nursery Root Master B1, and water. This will help prevent any transplant shock and to send out new feeder roots on the roses to help them get off to a great start. To prepare the area for planting your rose, dig the hole 6-8" deeper, and wider then the pulp pot. Amend your existing soil with a good rose soil mix like Nurseryman's Rose Planting Mix. Mix 30% of the Rose Mix, with 20% Worm Gold Plus, and 50% your Native Soil.

If planting the pulp pot directly into the ground: cut a large “X” at the bottom of the container, and slice the sides of the can (usually four), to ensure the roots will grow through the container. Keep in mind NOT to line up the cuts that you make in the container. Mound the soil at the bottom of the hole slightly, so as not to create a watering well underneath the pot. Back-fill the soil mixture around the container and tamp firmly to release any air pockets. Once planted the soil level inside the container should be the same level as it is in the ground.

If transplanting the rose from the pulp pot into the ground: remove rose from container. In the center of the hole, firmly pat the earth into a cone. Spread out the rose's roots over this cone, placing the bud union (between the roots and limbs) at the correct level. The bud union is the most susceptible part of the plant, so placement either above or below the soil line is of utmost importance.

In milder zones, plant the rose with the bud union about 1 to 1 ½ inches above ground level. Back-fill the hole with additional soil mixture, remembering to gently tamp the soil around the roots to prevent any air pockets. Water well, and why not add a solution of Master Nursery Root Master B1 for that little boost?
After planting, make sure to give each rose bush a nice deep soaking. Don’t water again until green shoots start to appear.

Prior to the first bloom, add two inches of mulch over the entire bed; this will keep the roots cool and moist, conserve moisture in hot weather, and help to prevent weeds from gaining a foothold. An excellent mulch is Nurseyman’s Black Forest available in 1.5 cu ft. and 3 cu ft. bags. As soon as your plant blooms, it is developed enough for feeding with a rose plant food. Liquid is always preferable to granular as it is immediately available to the roots. Feed with Dr. Earth Rose Fertilizer after the initial bloom cycle and once a month thereafter; cease feeding two months before the first frost.

Now take a break from your labors, and imagine what this bundle of sticks you've just planted will soon look like. Beauteous blooms will abound, and all because you cared enough to make the effort. Congratulations!
Bare Root Fruit Trees

Gardeners who have learned the glories of picking fresh fruit from their own orchards anxiously await the bare root season to take their list of desired trees to the local nursery. Your first look at the bare root fruit tree that you envision bearing baskets of fresh sweet fruit may be a bit of a disappointment; they won't win beauty contests. But there is a bonus to buying bareroot. As those smart gardeners know, you get great fruit trees at a price considerably less than a containerized tree.

Unlike evergreen fruits such as citrus, deciduous trees go through a dormant phase during which they lose all their leaves. Whether you're choosing plum, nectarine, pear, peach, pomegranate, persimmon, cherry or jujube trees, the safest time to dig these young ones from the field for transportation to the nursery sans soil on their roots, is when they are in a state of dormancy, hence the term "bare root." Planting your trees without soil from a foreign area means that the roots will grow into the native soil, the same soil they will remain in during their life span, thus ensuring a healthier, stronger tree.

True gardeners have learned patience. They will choose the smaller specimens, as the larger the tree the more out of balance will be the root to stem ratio. And while it may be momentarily painful, top that first year bare root off at 2 to 3 feet in height, with no side branches remaining. Doing this means that the scaffold, which is the lower side supporting structural branches, will be lower to the ground, making harvesting and pruning less of a chore. And while we're on pruning, peaches and nectarines will need to be heavily pruned each dormant season; apples, pears, almonds, plums, persimmon and apricots, once they are established, will only require moderate pruning.

It's wisest to ready the planting holes for your trees prior to going to the nursery, so that you can get them into the ground the same day. As with most plants and trees, they like loose soil with good drainage, and sunny locations. If your soil conditions are less than perfect, but the location you've chosen is, why not plant your new additions in a raised bed? This allows you to completely control the soil into which you are placing the trees.

Group trees that have similar spraying needs, and those varieties of fruit trees that require pollinators. Bees and the wind will assist you with this, so how lucky if your neighbors have cultivars that are needed for pollination of your trees!

Your planting hole should be wide rather than deep. A depth the length of the rootstock, or approximately 1.5 feet, should suffice. Put your hands into the earth and form a slight mound. Place your tree on the mound, gently spreading out the roots so that they aren't encircling the tree. Use the native soil to fill in the hole, and don't fertilize until you see growth on the tree. For the first two years, dilute the fertilizer by half so that young roots do not get burned.

It will take a couple of years before your bare root fruit tree actually bears fruit, but what a relatively short wait for the satisfaction of knowing that you were a part of the growth process nearly from the beginning. And imagine how sweet that first bite of fruit will taste!


Happy New Year

Wishing you and yours a very happy and safe New Year!


Turkey Pot Pie

What You'll Need:

  • 2 tablespoons butter
  • 1 onion, chopped
  • 2 stalks celery, chopped
  • 3 carrots, chopped
  • 4 tablespoons flour
  • 4 cups chicken or turkey stock
  • 2 potatoes, peeled and diced
  • 2 cups shredded turkey
  • 2 tablespoons chopped parsley
  • 1/2 cup frozen peas, thawed
  • 1 prepared pie crust
  • 1 egg, lightly beaten

Step by Step:

  • Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.
  • Melt butter in saucepan and cook chopped onion until tender.
  • Stir in celery and carrots and cook for 2 minutes.
  • Stir in flour and cook for 2 minutes.
  • Add chicken stock and bring to a simmer. Add potatoes and simmer until tender.
  • Stir in turkey, parsley and peas.
  • Pour mixture into casserole.
  • Top with pie crust and brush with egg.
  • Bake for 30 minutes until crust is golden.

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