Planning an outdoor celebration for Memorial Day? Show your patriotism by planting some beautiful containers to adorn your deck in the traditional colors--red, white and blue!

A good way to design these containers is to choose one plant for the center or back of the container that can remain in the pot indefinitely and filling in with foreground or perimeter plantings that can be changed with the seasons. Be sure to choose a pot large enough to accommodate the plants selected for it. If the pot does not have drainage holes, be sure to drill some before planting.

Dwarf bottlebrush (red), hibiscus rosa-sinensis (red or white), sea lavender (blue), butterfly bush (blue), kangaroo paw (red) or 'Flower Carpet' Roses (red or white). For a more subtle look, you could select a plant with red foliage such as 'Tropicanna' canna lily or one of the red-leaf phormiums. The choices are a little more limited if your pot will be placed in a shady area, but a gardenia or a dwarf red-leaf Japanese maple would work well.

Some good choices for foreground plants or plants that will drape over the sides of the sunny container would be petunia (red, white or blue), million bells (red, white or blue), red or blue salvia, verbena (red, white or blue), vinca (red or white) or ageratum (blue or white). Shady selections would include impatiens (red or white), begonia (red or white), lobelia (blue or white), heuchera (a red-leaf or white-leaf variety) or coleus (a red-leaf variety).

Choose a good quality potting soil. Make sure when potting your plants to compress the soil well; this will get rid of air pockets that will keep water from reaching portions of the soil and will also minimize settling of the soil. Be sure to allow enough room to water by leaving a couple of inches between the top of the soil and the top of the pot.

After your containers have been planted a few weeks, feed them with a good fertilizer to keep them blooming and growing well. Use the recommended amount and frequency suggested for the fertilizer (more and/or more often is NOT better).

With the proper care, your container will continue to bloom until July 4th and beyond. When fall comes, the filler plants can be removed and replaced with cool-season annuals of your choice.

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So, you've decided to design your own garden! This will prove to be an interesting journey, and if done correctly, the result will provide you and your family with an outdoor space that you can enjoy for years to come.

A garden can be many things: a tranquil retreat, an area for sports activities, a source for your own home-grown food, a multi-faceted entertainment area that complements indoor spaces or even a combination of all these things...and more.

A very important part of the initial planning phase is an honest consideration of your family's interests at present as well as an assessment of how they will likely evolve in the future. If these things are taken into consideration before anything else is dealt with, your chances of creating a garden that is able to evolve over time as your family grows and changes becomes much more likely.

• Do you and your family enjoy spending time outdoors, or will you be happier viewing the garden from the indoor spaces?
• Do you, or do you plan to, entertain a lot? Do you want to be able to use the outdoor living spaces for entertainment purposes at all times of the year?
• Are there certain sports you or your family enjoy, such as croquet, badminton, swimming, basketball, horseshoes or golf?
• Do you, or do you plan to, have pets? Do you envision the pets having free access to all outdoor areas at all times, or will you need a space to put them at certain times?
• Do you enjoy working in the garden and will you have time to do so?
• Would you use a firepit, swimming pool, built-in barbeque or fireplace?
• Do you need an area for vegetables and/or fruit trees? How large should it be?
• If you have small children, will they need an area for play equipment or possibly a walkway for tricycle riding?
• Do you like the idea of creating “garden rooms” or would you prefer a large, expansive open area with lots of lawn?
• Are there certain areas of the garden that need screening or areas that should be kept open to allow for views?
• What styles of gardens are you drawn to? Are there certain plants you like or ones you don't like?
• What elements are especially important to you? The sound of water? Fragrance? Shade? Hummingbirds or Butterflies? Color?

Some of these questions will be answered based on your area's size. For instance, even though you like basketball you may or may not be able to fit a half-court into your area - but perhaps a basketball hoop could be used.

Visiting local public and private gardens and looking at magazines and books can help you determine the style of garden you will prefer, while some visiting us will prove invaluable in determining your preferences in plants and garden ornaments.

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This article is going to help you recognize the good guys. Our discussion of beneficials would not be complete without mentioning something obvious that most of us have in our gardens--birds! They are easy to attract, beautiful to look at, enjoyable to listen to, and they are great predators too!

Scrub jays and mockingbirds eat caterpillars and grubs, and hummingbirds love aphids, which add much needed protein to their diet. There are lots more to help us — such as finches, weavers, etc....

To attract birds be sure to have a water source nearby, and plant a variety of plant material. Hummingbirds like any flowers with lots of nectar and bright colors. They are particularly fond of fuchsias, salvias, honeysuckles, and the like — we have many hummingbird-friendly plants here at the nursery. We'll show you how to create a garden for the birds!

Bees are also very important for our gardens. Without bees we would not have many flowers or fruit. They're our main pollinators. Not just honeybees, but bummblebees, mason bees and others. All are useful, and care should be taken with insecticides to avoid harming them.

If you're concerned about the Africanized bees (killer bees) which have had some publicity lately: they are usually only aggressive if their nests are disturbed, and have been found gathering pollen along with the friendly ones! It is wise to be aware of them, but not necessary to be afraid to garden!

And beetles...a very helpful order of insects is the beetles (order coleoptera). Besides the ladybugs, there are two very helpful families.

1) Beetles of the family carabidae (ground beetles):
Most adults are brown or black, although a few are metallic blue or green. Some of the larger species can live for 2 to 4 years. Although most forage on insects found in or on the soil, some climb into trees, shrubs, and crop plants to hunt. Almost all of these feed on pests. My favorites are the beetles in the genus calosoma, which eat caterpillars. The next time you see a black beetle, don't step on it--it may be after the caterpillars that are eating your plants!

2) Beetles of the family cantharidae (soldier beetles):
Soldier beetles are colorful insects, often black or brown with red, yellow or orange. They are elongate and flat with long threadlike antennae. Adults are commonly found on flowers and foliage. The larvae have dark bristles which give them a velvety appearance. Some of these beetles are important predators of aphid pests. Soldier beetles are highly predacious in the larval stage. They live on the ground and feed on other insects including, snails, slugs, millipedes, earthworms, caterpillars, maggots, and grasshopper eggs.

In closing, here's an important reminder of careful and informed use of chemicals: if you choose to use them, please consult a nursery professional. If you decide to dispose of them, do so through an official toxic waste disposal--usually listed in your local newspaper or in the Yellow Pages.

The Unwanted Trio: Powdery mildew, rust, and blackspot. For rose growers, these three characters are hard for us to avoid. Morning and evening air moisture will get us every time, no matter how careful we are about giving our plants the best cultural environment that we can. Oh sure, there are others! But we'll start with these three guys.

Powdery mildew appears as a superficial white or gray powdery substance over the surface of leaves, stems, flowers, or fruit of affected plants. These patches may enlarge until they cover the entire leaf on one or both sides. Young foliage and shoots may be particularly susceptible. Leaf curling and twisting may also occur with this fungus. Severe powdery mildew infection will result in yellowed leaves, dried and brown leaves, and disfigured shoots and flowers. Although it usually is not a fatal disease, powdery mildew may hasten plant defoliation, and the infected plant may become extremely unsightly. On roses, uncontrolled powdery mildew will prevent normal flowering on highly susceptible cultivars.

Some powdery mildew, especially those on roses, is favored by high humidity. This can happen in our gardens when we have plant overcrowding; shading will keep plants cool and promote higher humidity. These conditions are highly conducive to powdery mildew development.

Rust is another fungus presenting problems in our gardens. It first appears on the undersides of leaves and other plant parts as orange powdery "pustules." As these pustules develop, they become visible on the upper leaf surfaces as orange brown spots. Rust can develop when temperatures are 65 to 70 F, and moisture is continuous for two to three hours.

It is very important to remove and destroy the infected foliage containing rust. Wear gloves that can be washed afterwards and clean any tools used in the removal. This fungus is easy to spread. That is why it is important to also clean up any foliage that has fallen to the ground under the infected plant. Replace any mulch present with new mulch. Don't try to "wash" the rust away from the foliage! This will only help it to spread further in your garden.

Blackspot , also a fungus, appears like its name. It also develops during warm but wet weather. Unfortunately, it can overwinter in the leaf buds and canes or on fallen leaves not cleared away from your roses. Lots of sun, good air circulation and healthy soil will increase your rose plant resistance capabilities. As with rust, it is very important to remove and clean up infected foliage. Remember to clean your tools between cutting on infected plants.

Before using fungicides you should attempt to limit powdery mildew and rust by following good cultural practices.

• Purchase only top-quality, disease-free plants of resistant cultivars and species--we sell only the best.
• Prune out diseased terminals of woody plants, such as roses during the normal pruning period. All dead wood should be removed. Remove from the surrounding soil all dead leaves that might harbor the fungus.
• Keep plants healthy. Plant where the plants will obtain a minimum of 6 hours of sunlight daily (especially roses), space for good air circulation.
• Water thoroughly without over-watering. Don’t use overhead watering/sprinklers, which wet the foliage. Don’t water in the late afternoon or evening when the foliage will not have time to dry.

Fungicides may become necessary to achieve acceptable control. For best results with fungicides, spray programs must begin as soon as mildews are detected. Ask one of us which of the fungicide products are best suited for your needs. There is a range of products available on our shelves.

You don't have to live in Kansas to enjoy sunflowers in the garden! Sunflowers are easy and fun to grow. From tall varieties that reach for the sky to dwarf types that are knee-high, there's a variety to suit every gardener's needs. Since they grow very quickly, children enjoy watching them grow--and the large seeds are easy for small fingers to handle. Plus, if you buy a good eating variety, you can harvest the seeds and teach the kids to roast them for a healthy snack!

• Plant in full sun, where they will not shade other plants, or plant shade-lovers around them.
• Plant the seeds 1 inch deep and about 6 inches apart.
• When the seedlings come up, thin them to about 18 inches apart.
• Water well after planting and keep fairly moist, but not soggy, until the seeds sprout.

Sunflower seedlings will come up in one or two weeks. They will start out slowly, then speed up their growth rate. Children can be responsible for watering them, weeding around them and adding mulch around the plants.

Harvesting of sunflower heads is quick and easy--but you may need a ladder or stepstool if you are growing tall varieties. Watch the birds; when they start going after the seed heads, cover the heads with cheesecloth to protect the seeds. The seed heads will be ready to harvest when their backs are brown and dry and no traces of green remain.

Cut off the heads with a foot or two of stalk. Hang them upside down in a dry and airy place. When the seeds are dried, rub them off with your hand and store them in an airtight container. Don't wash them, as this could cause them to mold.

To roast sunflower seeds, place a single layer of raw dehulled kernels in a shallow pan. Roast in a 300 degree F oven for 30 to 40 minutes or until they are brown and crisp. Stir occasionally. Remove from the oven. One teaspoon of melted margarine may be added if preferred for each cup of seeds; stir to evenly coat. Place the seeds on absorbent paper. Salt to taste. Store in a tightly covered container.

For salted in-the-shell seeds, cover unhulled seeds with salted water in the amount of 2 quarts of water to 1/4-1/2 cup salt. Bring to a boil and simmer for 2 hours. Drain and dry on absorbent paper. Seeds may also be soaked overnight instead of boiled. Then proceed as for the roasted kernels above.

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Tomato hornworms are the larvae of a large sphinx moth that is about the size of a hummingbird. In spring the moth lays eggs on the underside of tomato (and related plants like pepper and eggplant) leaves. Although the hornworms are quite small when they first emerge, they are big eaters (of leaves) and grow up quickly. Usually, you won't even discover this fellow until it is large--about 2 inches long and fat! They are quite distinctive, actually handsome with their diagonal white stripes and horns on the rear.

Don't be afraid of the hornworms. They look more frightening than they are. They don't bite or sting, just try to look big and ferocious. You can easily handpick to remove from your plants and just throw them away. When they are younger and smaller, use Bt (bacillus thuringiensis) as an effective management technique.

Some gardeners have a different approach to the tomato hornworm. While handpicking a hornworm, look to see if you find little white cocoons attached to its back. If you do see this, that cocoon is a pupating braconid wasp, which is a garden-friend predator. Capture the hornworm and keep it (or all of them) in a container, feeding them tomato leaves. You are creating a nursery for the braconid wasps that can then be released into your garden! These wasps will help control the hornworm population.

Other natural predators are birds and the larvae of the green lacewing. Plant your gardens to create an inviting habitat for all of these natural predators, and you'll control this voracious eater of your tomato leaves. Luckily, hornworms don't eat the tomato!

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Do ladybugs really help control bad insects?

Answer:

They sure do! In fact, ladybugs are one of the most effective predatory insects around--and love to make a meal out of bad ones. But give them time to do their thing. If you get too impatient with them, they just might "fly away home." Make sure your garden friends are happy by providing them with water and shelter. Remember that good bugs are living creatures and they have feelings too.

It is best to release them in the evening or early morning, just after you have watered the garden. This will help keep them in the garden. It is also better to release them in small batches all around your garden than in one big group; otherwise, they might get all huffy and start duking it out for the territory.

Ladybugs are more likely to remain in your garden if there is a ready food supply. It is important to provide them with an alternative food source when meals of pest insects are scarce. Flowers produce nectar and pollen, which ladybugs also need to survive. Plan your garden to feed beneficial insects by choosing a variety of plants that will bloom as many months of the year as possible.

Don't be surprised if they leave after they have removed all your bad insects, though. They will only stick around for as long as there is a good food source in your garden.

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